TECH TIPS FOR YOUR GLI

1990 Jetta GLi Stock Specs:

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2.0 Liter, 134HP, 16 Valve 4-Cylinder Fuel Injected Engine
5-Speed Close Ratio Manual Transmission
Power Assisted Rack and Pinion Steering
Sport Suspension, Independent MacPherson Strut Front Suspension,
Independent Torsion Beam Axle Rear Suspension,
Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
Sport Tuned Suspension, Dual Tipped Exhaust Pipe

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Engine Specs:

Type 4 Cylinder, In-Line
Displacement 121 Cu. In. (2 Liter)
H.P. @ RPM: 134 @ 5,800
Trq. Lbs.-Ft. @RPM 133 @ 4,400

Valve Train:
Dual Over Head Cam, Spur Belt Driven,
4 Valves per Cylinder, Hydraulic Lifters
Cooling System Water Cooled, Cross-Flow Radiator,
Water Pump, Thermostatically Controlled
Electric Radiator Fan
Fuel/Air Supply Fuel Injection (KE - Motronic)
Emission System 3-Way Catalyst, Oxygen Sensor
Heavy Duty Cooling

Close Ratio 5spd (020 2Y) Gear Ratios:
1st -3.455
2nd -2.118
3rd -1.444
4th 1.129
5th .912
Final Drive -3.667

Front Suspension:
Independent MacPherson Struts,
15mm Stabilizer Bar, Coil Springs,
Telescopic Shock Absorbers

Rear Suspension:
Independent Torsion Beam Axle,
20mm Stabilizer Bar, Coil Springs,
Telescopic Shock Absorbers

Brakes:
Dual Diagonal Circuits with Power Assist,
Vent 10.1" Discs Front,
Solid 8.9" Discs Rear, Self Adjusting
Parking Brake Mechanical to Rear Wheels
Wheels 6 J x 15 BBS Alloy
Tires 185/50VR15V Steel Belted Radial Tires

Engine Oil 4.3 Quarts with Filter
Fuel 14.5 U.S. Gallons
Cooling System 7.3 Quarts

Top Speed 125 mph
Acceleration
0-50 mph 5.7 sec.
0-60 mph 7.8 sec.
40-60 mph
EPA Estimates (City/Hwy.)
50 States 22/28

weight ~2450ish ?

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Front Spoiler with Brake Cooling Ducts (not hooked up)
Rear Spoiler
Integrated Bumpers with Color Keyed Front & Rear Trim
Black Fender Flares
Dual Remote Controlled Outside Rearview Mirrors w/Color Keyed Housings
Two-Speed Wipers with Intermittent Feature andDriver's Side Deflector
Narrow Body Side Molding with Integrated GLI Nomenclature
Black VW Front Grille Badge, Window Trim & Door Handle Inserts
Roof Mounted FUBA Antenna
6J x 15 BBS Alloy Wheels

Speedometer, Tachometer,
Trip Odometer, Fuel Gauge, Coolant Temp. Gauge,
Digital Clock, Warning Chimes & Lights
On Board Multi-Function Trip Computer
Center Console with Ashtray
Power Height Adjustable, Fully Reclining Recaro Front Bucket
Seats with Adjustable Headrests
Height Adjustable Steering Column
Leather Wrapped 4-Spoke Steering Wheel
Automatic Shoulder Belt System with Manual Lap Belts
3-Point Outboard Rear Seatbelts with Center Lap Belt
Velour, Multi-Colored Upholstery & Dark Grey Trim
Velour and Leatherette Door Trim Panels
Full Cut Pile Carpeting, Full Luggage Compartment Trim
Electric Rear Window Defroster
Tinted Glass
Courtesy and Dome Lights with Time Delay
Right Hand Vanity Mirror (Illuminated)
Left Hand Vanity Mirror
Locking & Illuminated Glove Box
Front Door Map Pockets
Right Front Assist Handle
Rear Assist Handles with Coat Hooks

Air Conditioning
Manual Sunroof

the BROT ROCKET
mk28v@aol.com

Here are our suggestions on what you should do AS SOON as you get your 16v Volkswagen

The Top 10 affordable mods for 16v cars

by Alex Ranarivelo

1. Cut-out airbox. Greatly improves throttle response, and makes a nice growl. Might even give a couple of hp. On 87-89 cars, cut out the front of the airbox, or remove the side cover. On 90-91 cars, simply pop out the "horn" looking restrictor.

2. 87-89 cars: Autotech power module. Will make the car pull from 5500-7000rpms, a lot better. A MUST for 2.0 conversions.

3. 90-92 cars: Performance chip (I recommend Garrett). Will make everything better: low end, mid range, top end. EXCELLENT upgrade.

4. Cat-back (straight-through) exhaust: Can sound good (I use a Borla 19 inch muffler), and gives better top end power. Most noticeable from 5000-7000 rpms. Gives 4-5 hp over stock. Dropped 3 tenths off my 1/4 mile time.

5. Solid rubber motor mounts. If you have those piece of shit hydraulic mounts on your car, get rid of them. Makes driving your car so much better. Smoother, cleaner shifts.

6. Euro intake cam. Will make the car pull a bit better from 5000-7000 rpms. Gives about 5 hp. Not a monstrous difference, but well worth the money, if you can buy it for $200 or less. It's smog legal, idles smooth, doesn't hurt gas mileage, and doesn't hurt your low end power.

7. Rabbit GTI 4K tranny. People complain about the 1.8 16V not having enough torque (most of the time, their cars are way out of tune). This tranny will eliminate that problem. It is the BEST upgrade, next to a 2.0 Liter shortblock. Night and day difference in acceleration. Put this in your 2.0 16V GTI, and you'll be spinning tires like crazy. I love it.

8. 2.0 Liter shortblock (only if you own a 1.8, of course...). Will turn your Civic-killer, into a Mustang fighter. LOTS more torque. The ultimate upgrade. Surprise the shit out of lots of people, especially old M3's, mustangs, talons, GS-R's, etc.

9. For 90-92 cars: The 1.8 16V head. Claimed to give 10 hp at top end, will a tiny loss of torque. Will make your 2.0 rev past 6000, much, much better. We drag raced two nearly identical GTI's, one having the 1.8 head, and the other having the 2.0 head, and every time, the cars would be even through 1st and 2nd gears, but the car with the 1.8 head would always pull away in 3rd gear.

10. Even though I list this last, this is the MOST important upgrade: If you haven't ever replaced the injector 0-rings on you 16V, you MUST do it. You are losing power, and gas mileage. Make sure to replace them with VITON 0-rings, not the standard rubber ones. (the 90-92 cars came from the factory with Viton 0-rings, they are good for at least 80,000-100,000 miles). You would not believe the difference these one dollar little things make in your engine's performance. Remember: vacuum leaks are BAD. They throw off your fuel mixture.

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Everything you should know about 2.0 16V Motronic cars

by Alex Ranarivelo

Motor mounts: these cars come with the VW piece-of-crap hydraulic engine mounts. I recommend that you upgrade to the old-style VW rubber mounts, which are much tighter mounts. It will make get rid of the dreaded engine rocking that plagues these cars. The difference is NIGHT AND DAY. It's one of the first things I recommend doing. You need to replace the rear engine mount, and the front engine mount. The rear tranny mount does not need to be replaced.

The 16V alternator: tends to fail prematurely. Although my friend has a hard-driven GLI that has 150,000 miles on it, and still has the factory alternator, most of them go out before 100,000 miles. On one car, I replaced the alternator twice in one year. I was getting very frustrated, when  someone told me to keep the alternator belt as loose as possible. I took his advice, and have had no problems since. I keep the belt very loose, and have no problems with belt slippage at all.

The legendary idle/bucking problems: If your motronic car starts to idle funny, first thing you should do is go to the dealership, and make sure all the recalls have been fixed. Some cars did have recalls on computer wiring harnesses. Next, It seems that corrosion at the electrical connectors around the engine are to blame for the majority of these idling problems. Go to a good electronics store/warehouse, and get a can of Deoxit contact enhancer spray. It's about $14. Spray the inside of every electrical connector under the hood. The most important ones are the ones around the fuel distributor, one next to the firewall (potentiometer), one on the engine side (differential pressure regulator), and two under the intake boot (emissions related). Another cause of bucking/idle problems, is a small tear underneath the intake boot. Remove it completely to inspect it. Another cause of bucking, is a failing fuel pre-pump. They're $60 bucks and take 20 minutes to replace.

The transmission: The famous VW timebomb trannys. Plan on getting your tranny rebuilt by a VW expert, or plan on buying a rebuilt tranny. The factory ones never last. Use redline gear oil, it makes shifting easier, especially in the cold.

Shift linkage: The shift bushings tend to wear out fast, making the shifting a bit sloppy. Keep it greased. A shift weight will improve shifting, as will a short-shift kit. I have noticed that keeping an adjustable short shift kit on the shortest setting, will shorten the life of your shift bushings.

EGR equipped cars: I have only seen problems with the EGR system. Either the Valve fails, or the vacuum amplifier fails, causing a massive loss of power, rough idling, and bad gas mileage. Performance upgrade for EGR cars: There are two restrictor in the throttle body, in the smaller of the two holes. One is a cylinder shaped restrictor, the other is on the throttle butterfly. Remove them (you'll have to replace the smaller of the two butterflies in order to remove the second restrictor. Replace it with a butterfly from one from any non-EGR VW dual stage throttle body).

Finally, the engine: first piece of advice, is always use BOSCH products. Always keep an eye on the plug wires, they tend to fail at about 100,000 miles or so. Use the bosch tri-electrode spark plugs, they seem to be everybody's favorites. If you live in normal-to-hot climates, I highly recommend getting a 180 degree fan switch and thermostat. You motor will run a lot cooler, and will be less likely to ping. The A/C bracket bolts tend to break on these motors, causing major problems (they hold the water pump on). The fix is to use the 1.8 16V A/C bracket and bolts, they are much stronger. Make sure to replace the timing belt at every 50,000 miles or sooner.

Performance upgrades: First thing I recommend doing is popping the "trumpet" shaped restrictor out of the airbox. This will much improve throttle response and will make a nice growl, it's also supposed to give a few horsepower. Next, get a cat-back exhaust. Some people say that the factory exhaust flows well. It does not. You can drop your car's 1/4 mile time by 3 to 4 tenths of a second by using a straight-through cat-back exhaust system. It makes a big difference in high rpm power.

Next, is a chip. I recommend Garrett chips. Other reputed chips are Autothority, and Techtonics. After changing the exhaust system, a chip will give more power across most of the rev range. Personally, before getting performance cams, I recommend you either get a 1.8 16V head, or get your 2.0L head ported by Techtonics. A 1.8 16V head will give you more top end power than the 2.0L head(+7-10hp). You lose a tiny bit of torque, but it's well worth it. A fully ported head (1.8 or 2.0) will give you up to 15 hp.

Cams: If you like your car to get good gas mileage, idle nicely, pass smog, and have plenty of low-end torque, I would get the Euro intake cam. It gives 5hp from 5000 to 6000 rpms, and even a little more past 6000rpms. With it, your motor will pull strongly to 7000rpms. The slight loss of torque over the stock cam is almost unnoticeable. If you're going all out, shop around for Schricks and ask other people about their experiences with different cams.

PRIORITY NUMBER ONE: The Timing Belt Snapping the timing belt on an 8 valve VW won't do much more than necessitate throwing a new one on. The same little snappage on a 16 valve, and you'll have to throw a new engine in! Make sure the timing belt is changed every 4 years or 45,000 miles. VW originally recommended 60,000mi intervals, but lowered it because so many belts snapped. Remember to change the tensioner, too, because it is what actually causes most belts to break.

PRIORITY NUMBER TWO: The Motor Mounts These things rot... and when they do, you'll know it. It one of them breaks, the entire neighborhood will know it. Just imagine: a 500lb wrecking ball obliterating your lights, radiator, grille, and fenders... all from the inside of your engine compartment. If you have any doubt about your motor mounts' condition, (does your dash vibrate like a 25-cent Motel bed?) we recommend replacing them with Techtonics Heavy Duty mounts. Call Techtonics at 503.843.2700

PRIORITY NUMBER THREE: The Fuel Injectors Volkswagens are not morning people. We hit the snooze button, they hesitate. Why? The rubber injector seals dry up and shrink as they age, allowing excess air to be drawn in and out of the cylinder. Once the engine heats up a little, the rubber expands, forming a good seal, and the engine runs fine. Replacing the seals is cheap, quick, and easy (The way Jason likes it). If your car has cold start problems, save yourself loads of time and money- try putting extra ground straps in your engine. See our review page.

Sometimes, the problem goes deeper and the injectors need to be cleaned. Imagine you're having an asthma attack and can't breathe. The person standing next to you is a doctor who happens to have a syringe filled with a really strong asthma medication... but you reach for your Primatene Mist. Sound rediculous? Well, imagine your VW's reaction when you get a $2 can of K-Mart Injekt-r Kleen. Have the injector nozzles professionally flushed by an authorized Bosch person... and then use a can of Chevron Techron� once every two months. Bosch actually recommends this stuff, and Bosch is GOD.

PRIORITY NUMBER FOUR: The Filters You remember how your mom always said "Make sure you have clean underwear on because you never know what could happen". It worked, because you could picture yourself in the emergency room after a horrible accident, the nurses cringing as they cut away your briefs. On the same principle, you'd better make sure all your filters are clean. Why? You might live 1000 miles from the nearest desert, but I personally guarantee that as soon as your old, rotten air filter sprouts a hole, they'll be a violent sand storm. Make sure you get the air filter (spring for the $25 K&N one... their reputation speaks for itself), the oil filter (2 stage, please), and the all-important fuel filter. Remember that bit about Bosch being God? Well, the fuel injection system on your car is the (brain)child of Bosch, and therefore equivalent to Jesus... so treat Him nicely and get a Bosch OEM fuel filter replacement.

PRIORITY NUMBER FIVE: Fun stuff These are modifications that will not only make you like your car better, but will serve a useful purpose. (Now, how many things can you say that about?)

(a) Throw on a Neuspeed strut tower brace. It installs in about 3 minutes on the Scirocco and about 20 minutes on the GTI/Jetta. It'll stiffen your frame not only for improved handling, but it will take some of the stress off of it. My Scirocco had some stretch marks at the A-pillar frame junction from body flex by the time I got it at 28k miles... and it lived in Florida where there are no bumps. See our review page for details on installation.

(b) Call up ABD and order a short shift kit, shift weight, and shift linkage bushing kit. It will change the whole way the shifter feels, and replacing the bushings will make sure that you don't damage your delicate transmission. Again,

This section is devoted to products that the Pro's recommend (and those that we condemn!) We all know that upgrading your signifcant other can be a stressful, nightmare inducing, blood pressure raising experience. There are so many products out there, so we have taken it upon ourselves to give you the low-down about everything that we get our hands on. Also, if you have any info to share, please email me at vwjetta90@aol.com. You won't receive a T-shirt, bumper sticker, or U2 tickets for doing it, but we guarantee that you will sleep better knowing that you've made the world a better place for 16v owners.

1)The Neuspeed Front Strut Tower Brace This item should be on all new 16v owners' Christmas lists.

When the mad German scientists were conceptualizing the formula for our Bahn burners, they overlooked one equation: VW+16v=frame flex. The flex problem in the 16v cars is sometimes so severe that cracking and tearing of the frame ahead of the fire wall can occur. So if you don't own a strut tower brace, get one- If you do, then give yourself a big pat on the back for being a good parent.

I ordered my (Jetta) tower brace from New Dimensions (800.637.2781). It cost $75 and it came with all necessary hardware and even the needed nut-sert tool. Installation took about 15 minutes. Apart from looking awsome under the hood there have been noticable differences on the street- no dash creaks and increased turn in response. Jason C. ordered the Neuspeed brace for his Scirocco form Autobahn Designs (909.351.9566). It cost $99 and was even easier to install than the Jetta's- 4 bolts-3 minutes-no problem.

2)The ABD Racing Short Shift Kit and Shift Weight "Where There's a Shift-- There's a Weight"

I Know - you spend a good part of your life as a 16v owner defending your stock linkage's feel and operation to all your Honda-driving friends. Shut them up for good and make yourself happy... Buy an ABD Short Shift+Shift Weight. I most strongly recommend the shift weight. Buy the Weight!!! Buy the Weight!!!! It is the cheapest and easiest way you can improve your car for a total of $70 for the Jetta (25% 45% and 65% shift throw reduction), and $80 for the Scirocco (throw reduction of 25% or 45%). Call ABD at 909.351.9566

The kit comes with all hardware needed for installation. In the Jetta, the process took about 5 minutes. The Scirocco was a little more difficult because of the complexity of the shift linkage, but only took about 15 minutes. It helps to remove the rubber air intake duct to have access from above. The procedure is pretty straightforward... don't bother relying on ABD's instructions, because they're illegible copies of a European Car Tech Procedure article.

As soon as I get the Jetta back from the shop, I'll be giving reviews on ATE Power Disc rotors, ABD front and rear swaybars, Mintex Red Box brake pads, Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks, and Eibach lowering springs.

This came from "Jason Silva's GLI PAGE" Click here to go there!

Stock VW Performance Times

Year   Make & Model                          (0-60)       (1/4 Mile) 
_____  _________________________________     ______       __________
1973   Volkswagon Super Beetle Convertible   23.8            22.5
1971   Volkswagen Super Beetle               18.4            21.1
1998   Volkswagen Beetle                      9.7            17.2
1999   Volkswagen Bettle GLS (1.8 T)          7.6            15.9
1999   Volkswagen Beetle GLS (2.0)            9.7            17.3
1999   Volkswagen Beetle GLS (1.9 TD)        11.1            17.9
1993   Volkswagen Cabriolet                  11.2            18.1
1990   Volkswagen Corrado                     9.3            16.8
1990   Volkswagen Corrado G60                 8.9            16.5
1992   Volkswagen Corrado SLC                 6.8            15.3
1993   Volkswagen Corrado SLC                 6.9            15.5
1994   Volkswagen Corrado SLC                 7.2            15.6
1980   Volkswagen Dasher Diesel              19.4             N/A
1987   Volkswagen Fox GL                     10.8            18.0
1987   Volkswagen Golf 16V                    8.5            16.5
1994   Volkswagen Golf III GL                 9.8            16.7
1985   Volkswagen GTI                         9.0            16.9
1988   Volkswagen GTI 16V                     8.5            16.5
1989   Volkswagen GTI 16V                     8.8            16.6
1991   Volkswagen GTI 16V                     8.4            16.8
1995   Volkswagen GTI VR6                     7.1            15.5
1981   Volkswagen Jetta                      12.3            18.6 
1985   Volkswagen Jetta GLI                  11.2            18.0
1986   Volkswagen Jetta GLI                  10.4            17.8
1989   Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V               8.8            16.6
1990   Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V               9.0            16.6
1994   Volkswagen Jetta III GL               10.1            17.6
1995   Volkswagen Jetta III GLX               7.7            16.1
1999   Volkswagen Jetta GLS                   7.8            16.0
1990   Volkswagen Passat GL                  10.5            17.6
1992   Volkswagen Passat GL                  10.9            17.8
1993   Volkswagen Passat GLX                  8.5            16.6
1994   Volkswagen Passat GLX (auto)           8.9            16.9
1995   Volkswagen Passat GLX                  9.5            17.2
1998   Volkswagen Passat GLS                  7.9            16.1
1983   Volkswagen Quantum                    13.0            19.0
1983   Volkswagen Quantum GL5                12.6            18.8
1987   Volkswagen Quantum Syncro              9.6            17.0
1989   Volkswagen Quantum GL5 Syncro          9.8            17.4
1976   Volkswagen Rabbit                     11.0            17.9
1979   Volkswagen Rabbit (Gas)               11.8            18.9
1979   Volkswagen Rabbit (Diesal)            21.3            22.2 
1979   Volkswagen Rabbit (Turbo Diesal)      17.9            21.0 
1980   Volkswagen Rabbit Roadster            12.9            18.9
1981   Volkswagen Rabbit Conv.               14.0             N/A
1981   Volkswagen Rabbit                     12.6             N/A
1983   Volkswagen Rabbit GTI                 10.6            17.7
1976   Volkswagen Scirocco                   10.9            17.6
1980   Volkswagen Scirocco                   11.2             N/A
1983   Volkswagen Scirocco                   11.7            18.3
1984   Volkswagen Scirocco                   10.7            17.8
1987   Volkswagen Scirocco 16V                7.7            16.1
1972   Volkswagen Wagon                      17.7            20.9

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